How To Remove Leaves From Leaf Springs

Roberto

So I bought the OME deluxe heavy kit for my BJ42 with grand dreams of packing it downwardly like a mule and traveling the universe which is never going to happen and desire to soften the ride and wondering if taking a leaf out of each spring will soften it up since it is my DD? If and so, which leaf should I have out of each spring? Any advice is appreciated.

thanks
Rob

pavieSD

I removed leaf's from my brand new pause afterwards trying for a year to suspension them in and get a soft ride that way with no success. In the stop it was adequately piece of cake to remove a leafage and then I would have done that from the get go if I had known meliorate. From reading online, the full general consensus is to remove the longest leaf that is non tied into your shackle mounts. Yous can either remove the entire foliage from the truck one at a time, or exercise what I did, and disassemble each corner leafage while on the truck. This was the easiest approach for me since I didn't have to deal with the shackle bolts or messing with the axle location.

I may actually practise this again, for one big reason, and that is that my leafs are already showing rust between each leaf. I recommend that y'all selection up some of this stuff and layer it between each leaf as you lot reassemble.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Foliage-Spring-Liner-with-Lip-ane-3-four-Inch,2079.html

To be articulate, I haven't bought the liner all the same, so I'one thousand non certain if the width dimensions are correct for our trucks, then YMMV and do some measurements before you buy.

The longest foliage that isn't tied into your bushings is the foliage directly below your shackle mounted leaf. This means y'all'll demand to remove the ubolts, remove the leaf centering bolt, remove the leaf concur downwards clamps (if you have them) and and then pull all the leafs off that corner until all your left with is the top nearly leaf, and then delete the longest leaf, reassemble that corner (with the delrin liner between each leaf) if you decide on that route, and so do the next corner.

Unfortunately, y'all won't know how much each leaf effects the ride until you reassemble and bulldoze it for a few days, and so it's going to be a trial and error sort of thing. Other folks will say to never do this and just buy the correct softer leaf applications (deleting a leaf causes more stress on the each foliage that is left over then it was originally designed for and you may end up cracking a leaf that is left over from not having the right amount of leaves), but the fashion I figured, this is a cheap (free) option to try earlier you crush out more money and I don't hardcore rock climb my rig then I felt it was worth the risk.

Roberto

Thanks. I believe at that place are more leafs in the OME heavy kit than my orignal leafs. I wanna say my originals were vi leafs per corner?

Rob

kcustom73

If I recall correctly, I removed the tertiary and 4th leafage (counting from the longest leaf that attaches to the shackles) on my OME heavies on the rear. Made a good difference in the ride ( haven't driven it much nonetheless but the test ride was practiced)

pavieSD

The amount of leaves isn't as important as the tensile forcefulness of each leaf. I think I removed the 2-four leaf, and had vii on my ironman 4 inch lift to offset with. If I did information technology again or redo information technology, I may just add those back in and remove the acme most leaf under the shackle and run into how much of a difference I go. You'll about likely have to trial and error it, just what I read on mud is that the leaves closest to the shackle cause the most tension, so removing the leaf closest to the frame will give yous the most bang for your buck on softening upwards the ride.

77cruiser

I called ARB and asked the same question. He told me to remove the get out 2nd from the bottom which is a curt leaf on my heavy kit.

Day and nighttime difference. The shorter the leaf the stiffer the leafage is.

In my opinion I don't think most people should ever buy heavy. Way over impale and compromises the ride even when loaded down.

Roberto

cheers, I really sent ARB the aforementioned question today
thanks for the replies fellas

watrob

I ram OME heavy on the front & light on the rear equally I accept a sports tub. But medium springs for the rear should exist alright.

Roberto

Respond from ARB Tech this morning!

"Yes you are correct. The heavy springs are the lights with an overload. You will desire to remove the 3rd or 4th from the chief leaf on the front; you volition see they are the same length. On the rear you will desire to remove the 3rd foliage downwardly.

Hope this helps.

BrianSanDiego

Bringing this thread back from the expressionless...

I bought the OME rear heavy springs with plans on removing a leaf, as these threads suggested.

This is the most informative thread I found, but here it says one ARB tech recommended removing the "third leaf down" (which I read as 3rd from the tiptop). And another tech said "2nd from the lesser".

3rd downward would be a full length leaf, and 2nd upwards would be a short leaf.

My rig has a hard top and is commonly lightly loaded, but occasionally I'll have a RTT and/or pull a piddling trailer and needs to be firmed upward quite a bit. Too much sway!

Anyone have some real-world experience removing leaves from these spring packs, and can offer a proposition?

Thanks!

kcustom73

I removed the tertiary downward (long leaf) on my OME heavy's. I like the way it rides now. Not sure what shackles yous volition exist using but if you're using the ones that came with the OME kit (stock length) I would recommend going to a two" longer than stock shackle. Makes the OME heavy's ride better.

BrianSanDiego

Smashing! Thanks for the answer. I've already got extended shackles so should be good to get.

How did your pinion bending end upward? Right at present I've got shims, simply might be able to delete those? Would exist nice to get it right on the commencement try.

kcustom73

My pinion was good when I first set information technology upward. I did notice nonetheless that after the springs settled I had to re-adapt. With my extended drive train (GM 65.T diesel, 4L80e, 203, splitcase) I ended with a 6º shim. I'yard working on replacing my semi-float axle with a full float from a 78 FJ45 pickup and have to redo the spring perches due to rust, then I'm planning on welding the new ones at the correct angle and get rid of the shims.

kcustom73

Try to get your pinion correct. A few degrees tin can make a difference in the vibration you're going to feel. One time I got mine right again, it made a world of difference. Made my xl more enjoyable to drive.

BrianSanDiego

Thanks for the info guys.

Real happy with these OME rear springs. Bought the OME heavy rear springs and took out a leafage, tertiary down from the height. I concluded up using a 6deg shim to get the U-joints lined upward just right. I used my existing extended shackles, maybe ii" longer than stock, and it doesn't await like I'll need to trade them for anti-inversion shackles.

I oasis't driven it far, but information technology seems like it gives a dainty progressive spring rate. Squeamish and smooth cruising, just you lot tin feel it house as the rig leans effectually corners, which is what I wanted. Also, I expect the load capacity to be much improved.

Happy camper...

How To Remove Leaves From Leaf Springs

OME heavy kit question. How to take a leaf out to soften the ride??? (two Viewers)

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